Tesis ini mengkaji praktik konsumsi budaya fesyen serta pemaknaan terhadap konten TikTok pada fenomena Citayam Fashion Week. Para sarjana mengkaji konsumsi budaya sebagai faktor yang melahirkan hierarki kelas sosial berbasis modal budaya atau selera, termasuk konsumsi budaya fesyen. Hierarki pada praktik konsumsi budaya fesyen menempatkan kelas pekerja pada posisi inferior secara artistik dibandingkan dengan kelas elite. Selera fesyen kelas pekerja dianggap bersifat terbatas secara ekonomi dan mereka hanya meniru selera kelas dominan. Anggapan ini membuat apropriasi budaya fesyen kelas pekerja dianggap sebagai sesuai yang asing dan subordinat. Tesis ini meneliti tren fenomena Citayam Fashion Week yang populer melalui media sosial TikTok. Partisipan Citayam Fashion Week yang diteliti dalam tesis ini berasal dari kalangan kelas pekerja. Untuk itu, studi ini menganalisis praktik konsumsi budaya fesyen partisipan Citayam Fashion Week serta bagaimana pemaknaan mereka terhadap tren konten TikTok guna memahami fenomena dari sisi internal partisipan. Studi ini menunjukkan partisipan Citayam Fashion Week mengonsumsi budaya fesyen dengan cara yang spesifik, yakni dengan konsumsi aktif yang mengeksplorasi mode fesyen, konsumsi pragmatis, dan konsumsi pasif. Sementara itu, partisipan juga memiliki posisi pemaknaan yang khusus terhadap konten TikTok. Dari hasil temuan, penelitian menyimpulkan adanya hierarki sosial pada fenomena Citayam Fashion Week melalui praktik konsumsi budaya fesyen dan tren konten TikTok. Apropriasi fesyen partisipan Citayam Fashion Week diperlakukan sebagai suatu hal yang abnormal dan representasi serta identitas mereka ditentukan oleh kelompok dominan. Temuan ini menunjukkan konsumsi budaya fesyen dan tren konten TikTok tentang Citayam Fashion Week melanggengkan kendali posisi kelas dan ekonomi oleh kelompok dominan.
This thesis examines the consumption practices of fashion culture and the meaning of TikTok content in the Citayam Fashion Week phenomenon. Scholars have studied cultural consumption as a factor that creates social class hierarchies based on cultural capital or tastes, including the consumption of fashion culture. Hierarchy in the practice of cultural consumption of fashion places the working class in an artistically inferior position compared to the elite class. The fashion tastes of the working class are considered to be economically limited and they primarily imitate the tastes of the dominant class. This assumption considers the cultural appropriation of working-class fashion as foreign and subordinate. Following this assumption, this thesis studies the the trend of the Citayam Fashion Week phenomenon which is popular through social media TikTok. It researches Citayam Fashion Week participants who come from the working class. For this reason, this study analyzes the consumption practices of Citayam Fashion Week participants' fashion culture and how they interpret the trend of TikTok content in order to understand the phenomenon from the participants’s side. This study shows that Citayam Fashion Week participants consume fashion culture in distinctive ways, namely by exploring fashion, pragmatic consumption, and passive consumption. Meanwhile, participants also have specific interpretations of TikTok content. From the findings, the study concluded that there is a social hierarchy in the Citayam Fashion Week phenomenon through the practice of consuming fashion culture and TikTok content trends. The fashion appropriation of Citayam Fashion Week participants is treated as something foreign and their representation and identity are determined by the dominant group. These findings show that consumption of fashion culture and TikTok content trends regarding Citayam Fashion Week perpetuate control of the class and economic positions by the dominant group. |
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