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"Asiatikosida adalah konstituen utama yang diisolasi dari Centella asiatica (L.) dan merupakan salah satu zat aktif yang banyak digunakan untuk mencegah penuaan kulit. Namun, asiatikosida memiliki masalah ketidakstabilan karena mudah teroksidasi dan terdegradasi. Hal ini dapat mempengaruhi stabilitas asiatikosida dalam sediaan kosmetik. Penelitian ini bertujuan untuk mendapatkan mikroemulsi asiatikosida sebagai sistem pembawa yang dapat meningkatkan stabilitas asiatikosida dan memfasilitasinya sebagai sediaan kosmetik. Pada penelitian ini, optimasi mikroemulsi asiatikosida dilakukan dengan memformulasikan mikroemulsi menggunakan isopropil miristat (sebagai fase minyak) dengan konsentrasi surfaktan (Tween 80) yang berbeda, yaitu F1 = 20%, F2 = 25%, dan F3 = 30%. Mikroemulsi dibuat dengan menggunakan metode titrasi fase. Ketiga formula yang diproduksi dievaluasi dalam hal organoleptik, distribusi ukuran partikel, pH, bobot jenis, viskositas, rheologi dan tegangan permukaan, cycling test, sentrifugasi, uji stabilitas 6 minggu pada 5±3°C dan 30±2°C, serta uji penetapan kadar selama 5 minggu penyimpanan. Mikroemulsi jernih dihasilkan dari F2 dan F3, sedangkan F1 tampak keruh dan terjadi pemisahan fase. Uji penetapan kadar menunjukkan bahwa kadar asiatikosida selama 5 minggu dalam formula F1, F2 dan F3 berturut-turut adalah 65,25 ± 13,73%; 42,62 ± 15,72% dan 68,50 ± 5,94%. Dapat disimpulkan bahwa mikroemulsi yang mengandung asiatikosida yaitu F2 dan F3 memenuhi persyaratan dan stabil secara fisik selama penyimpanan 6 minggu. Namun, belum dapat meningkatkan stabilitas kimia asiatikosida selama penyimpanan 5 minggu.

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Asiaticoside is the main constituent isolated from Centella asiatica (L.), and is one of the active substances widely used to prevent skin aging. However, asiaticoside has instability problems because it is easily oxidized and degraded. This can affect the stability of asiaticoside in cosmetic preparations. The aim of this study was to obtain an asiaticoside-containing microemulsion as a carrier system that could increase the stability of asiaticoside and facilitate it as a cosmetic preparation. In this study, optimization of the asiaticoside-contiaining microemulsion was carried out by formulating the microemulsion using isopropyl myristate (as an oil phase) with different surfactant (Tween 80) concentrations, namely F1 = 20%, F2 = 25%, and F3 = 30%. The microemulsion was prepared by using the phase titration method. The three formulations manufactured were evaluated in terms of their organoleptic, particle size distribution, pH, mass density, viscosity, rheology and surface tension. Moreover, a cycling test, centrifugation method, 6-week stability test at 5±3°C and 30±2°C, and drug content assay during 5-week of storage were also conducted. Clear microemulsions were produced from F2 and F3, while F1 looked cloudy and phase separation occurred. The assay results showed that the asiaticoside levels for 5 weeks in F1, F2 and F3 were 65.25 ± 13.73%; 42.62 ± 15.72% and 68.50 ± 5.94%, respectively. It can be concluded that the asiaticoside microemulsions F2 and F3, meet the requirements and were physically stable during 6 weeks of storage. However, it has not been able to increase the chemical stability of asiaticoside during 5 weeks of storage.  "

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"ABSTRAKPermasalahan-permasalahan seperti penuaan kulit, kulit kering, hiperpigmentasi, kulit berjerawat membutuhkan produk perawatan yang sesuai. Produk-produk seperti krim siang, krim malam, tabir surya, serum, essence, masker dapat diterapkan untuk mengatasi permasalahan-permasalahan tersebut. Masker merupakan salah satu produk perawatan kulit yang dapat meningkatkan hidrasi, memiliki kadar zat aktif lebih banyak dan memberi efek lebih cepat dibanding produk lainnya serta lebih praktis digunakan. Centella asiatica merupakan salah tanaman yang memiliki banyak khasiat. Manfaat utama dari ekstrak Centella asiatica adalah sebagai agen antiaging, antiinflamasi, antioksidan, meningkatkan produksi kolagen dan dapat mempercepat proses penyembuhan luka. Dalam pemanfaatannya, terdapat masalah dari zat aktif terkandung terkait penetrasi ke kulit. Penghantaran seperti nanopartikulat lipid dapat diterapkan untuk meningkatkan penetrasi dari asiatikosida dan madekasosida. Review artikel ini bertujuan untuk mengkaji lebih dalam terkait penerapan nanopartikulat lipid dalam masker mengandung ekstrak Centella asiatica. Nanopartikulat lipid yang dapat diterapkan dalam masker antaralain adalah liposom, nanoemulsi, Solid Lipid Nanoparticles (SLN) dan Nanostructured Lipid Carriers (NLC). Penerapan nanopartikulat lipid tersebut dapat dipadukan dengan produk masker guna meningkatkan hidrasi, efektivitas dan penetrasi melalui kulit dari asiatikosida dan madekasosida.

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ABSTRACT

Skin problems such as skin aging, dry skin, hyperpigmentation, acne prone skin require skin treatment products. Skincare products that could be applied are day or night cream, sunscreen, serum, essence, and facemask. Facemask or mask is one of many treatment choices, that could hydrating the skin, has more active substances levels, and give faster effect than the other products, also easier to use. Centella asiatica is one beneficial plant. Centella asiaticas extract has anti-aging, antioxidant and anti-inflammation activity, also increase collagen production, and accelerate wound healing. But there are problems in contained active substances penetration through the skin. Lipid nanoparticulates delivery system can be applied to increase penetration of asiaticoside and madecassoside. This review article aims to study about the application of lipid nanoparticulates in Centella asiatica masks. Lipid nanoparticulates that could be applied in the mask are nanoemulsion, liposoms, solid lipid nanoparticles, and nanostructured lipid carriers. This combination of lipid nanoparticulates in masks can maximize skin hydration and improve penetration of asiaticoside and madecassoside through the skin."

"N-acetylcysteine ​​adalah antioksidan yang mengandung gugus thiol / sulfhydryl dan saat ini sedang dikembangkan sebagai bahan aktif dalam krim anti-penuaan. N-asetilsistein tidak stabil karena mudah teroksidasi. Salah satu strategi untuk menjaga stabilitas N-acetylcysteine ​​adalah diformulasikan menggunakan transferome sebagai sistem pembawa. Penelitian ini bertujuan untuk membandingkan stabilitas dan aktivitas antioksidan dari N-acetylcysteine ​​dalam krim anti-penuaan yang diformulasikan dengan sistem pembawa yang berpindah-pindah dan yang tidak. Formulasi transferome optimal yang digunakan memiliki rasio fosfatidilkolin dan tween 80 (90:10). Stabilitas fisik diuji dengan tes bersepeda dan tes sentrifugal, hasil yang diperoleh menunjukkan bahwa kedua krim stabil secara fisik. Stabilitas kimia diperoleh dari hasil penentuan zat aktif yang tersisa dalam uji stabilitas dipercepat pada kondisi 40oC dan kelembaban relatif 70% yang dianalisis menggunakan High Performance Liquid Chromatography detektor UV-Vis pada kondisi analisis optimal dan valid menggunakan kolom C18 , panjang gelombang maksimum 214 nm, laju aliran 1,0 mL / menit, volume injeksi 5 μL, dan larutan buffer fosfat fase seluler pH 3,0. Hasil uji stabilitas dipercepat menunjukkan bahwa jumlah rata-rata N-asetilsistein yang tersisa dalam krim transferom adalah 82,92%, sedangkan krim non-transferom adalah 48,47%. Uji aktivitas antioksidan yang telah dilakukan membuktikan bahwa N-acetylcysteine ​​yang terkandung dalam sediaan krim memiliki aktivitas antioksidan yang kuat karena memiliki IC50 26,90 μg / mL dan 38,63 μg / mL. Hasil uji penetrasi in vitro menunjukkan bahwa formulasi transferom dalam sediaan krim dapat meningkatkan tingkat penetrasi N-acetylcysteine ​​dalam krim anti-penuaan yang 845,67 μg.cm-2.jam

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N-acetylcysteine ​​is an antioxidant that contains a thiol / sulfhydryl group and is currently being developed as an active ingredient in anti-aging creams. N-acetylcysteine ​​is unstable because it is easily oxidized. One strategy to maintain the stability of N-acetylcysteine ​​is formulated using transferome as a carrier system. This study aims to compare the stability and antioxidant activity of N-acetylcysteine ​​in anti-aging creams formulated with mobile carrier systems and those that do not. The optimal transferome formulation used has a ratio of phosphatidylcholine and tween 80 (90:10). Physical stability was tested with a cycling test and a centrifugal test, the results obtained showed that both creams were physically stable. Chemical stability was obtained from the results of determining the remaining active substances in the accelerated stability test at 40oC and 70% relative humidity analyzed using High Performance Liquid Chromatography UV-Vis detector under optimal and valid analysis conditions using column C18, maximum wavelength 214 nm, rate flow of 1.0 mL / min, 5 μL injection volume, and cellular phase phosphate buffer solution pH 3.0. Accelerated stability test results showed that the average amount of N-acetylcysteine ​​remaining in transferom cream was 82.92%, while non-transferom cream was 48.47%. Antioxidant activity tests that have been carried out prove that N-acetylcysteine ​​contained in cream preparations has strong antioxidant activity because it has IC50 26.90 μg / mL and 38.63 μg / mL. In vitro penetration test results show that the transferom formulation in cream preparations can increase the penetration rate of N-acetylcysteine ​​in anti-aging creams which is 845.67 μg.cm-2.hours."

"Riset pencarian senyawa bioaktif yang memiliki aktivitas penghambatan terhadap enzim elastase dan antioksidan dalam menunda proses penuaan pada kulit terus diupayakan agar dapat dikembangkan menjadi kandidat agen anti-aging yang potensial. Tanaman mabolo (Diospyros blancoi A. DC.) merupakan tanaman asli Indonesia yang belum banyak dieksplorasi pemanfaatannya baik secara tradisional maupun ilmiah sebagai anti-aging. Penelitian ini bertujuan untuk mengidentifikasi senyawa bioaktif dari ekstrak metanol daun (EDM) atau ekstrak metanol kulit batang (EKM) tanaman mabolo yang memiliki aktivitas anti-elastase dan antioksidan teraktif. Ekstraksi daun dan kulit batang dengan pelarut metanol mengggunakan ultrasound assisted-extraction (UAE). Aktivitas anti-elastase dan antioksidan dari tiap ekstrak, fraksi, subfraksi, dan isolat dievaluasi. Hasil penelitian menunjukkan bahwa EKM memiliki aktivitas anti-elastase dan antioksidan lebih kuat dibanding EDM meskipun keduanya memiliki aktivitas yang sangat kuat dibawah 50 µg/mL. EKM sebagai ekstrak teraktif dilanjutkan fraksinasi padat-cair dan menghasilkan fraksi etil asetat kulit batang mabolo (FEKM) yang memiliki aktivitas anti-elastase dan antioksidan paling kuat dibandingkan dengan fraksi metanol kulit batang mabolo (FMKM) maupun fraksi heksan kulit batang mabolo (FHKM). FEKM sebagai fraksi teraktif difraksinasi lebih lanjut dengan kromatografi kolom menghasilkan 16 subfraksi etil asetat kulit batang mabolo (SEKM A-SEKM P). Hasil identifikasi isolat melalui FTIR dan NMR dibandingkan terhadap literatur. Isolat DB1 yang diperoleh dari isolasi SEKM N diduga asam galat, sedangkan isolat DB2 yang diperoleh dari isolasi SEKM L dan SEKM N diduga asam betulinat. Aktivitas anti-elastase isolat DB2 [IC50 = 8,62 µg/mL (18,88 µM)] lebih kuat dibanding DB1 (IC₅₀ = 93,35 µg/mL (548,70 µM)]. Akan tetapi, aktivitas antioksidan isolat DB1 lebih kuat dibanding isolat DB2. Sementara itu, aktvitas antielastase isolat DB2 menunjukkan jenis inhibisi unkompetitif secara in vitro. Hasil interaksi secara in silico diprediksi isolat DB2 menghambat bukan pada sisi aktif enzim elastase (1B0F) dengan energi bebas ikatan sebesar -5,85 kcal/mol.

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Studies on the discovery of bioactive compounds that have inhibitory activity against elastase enzymes and antioxidants in delaying the skin's aging process are still being explored so that potential anti-aging agents could be developed. The mabolo plant (Diospyros blancoi A. DC.) is a native Indonesian plant that has not been widely explored for its traditional and scientific uses as anti-aging. This study aimed to identify bioactive compounds from leaf methanol extract (EDM) or stem bark methanol extract (EKM) of the mabolo plant that have the most active anti-elastase and antioxidant activities. Extraction of leaves and stem bark with methanol solvent using ultrasound assisted-extraction (UAE). Both the anti-elastase and antioxidant activities of each extract, fraction, subfraction, and isolate were evaluated. The results showed that EKM had stronger anti-elastase and antioxidant activities than EDM although both had very strong activities below 50 µg/mL. EKM as the most active extract was followed by solid-liquid fractionation and resulted in ethyl acetate fraction of mabolo stem bark (FEKM) which had the strongest anti-elastase and antioxidant activities compared to methanol fraction of mabolo stem bark (FMKM) and hexane fraction of mabolo stem bark (FHKM). FEKM as the most active fraction was further fractionated by column chromatography to obtain 16 ethyl acetate subfractions of mabolo stem bark (SEKM A - SEKM P). The results of isolate identification by FTIR and NMR were compared to the literature. Isolate DB1 obtained from SEKM N isolation was considered gallic acid, while isolate DB2 obtained from SEKM L and SEKM N isolation was considered betulinic acid. The anti-elastase activity of isolate DB2 [IC50 = 8.62 µg/mL (18.88 µM)] was stronger than DB1 (IC50 = 93.35 µg/mL (548.70 µM)]. However, the antioxidant activity of isolate DB1 was stronger than isolate DB2. Meanwhile, the anti-elastase activity of isolate DB2 showed an uncompetitive type of inhibition in vitro. In silico interaction results predicted DB2 isolate inhibits not on the active side of the elastase enzyme (1B0F) with a binding free energy of -5.85 kcal/mol."

"Mikroalga Nannochloropsis sp. memiliki kandungan biomassa bervariasi, salah satunya protein. Hidrolisis protein menghasilkan peptida dan asam amino sehingga meningkatkan bioaktivitas dari protein. Penelitian ini bertujuan untuk mendapatkan protein hidrolisat dari mikroalga Nannochloropsis sp. serta mengetahui keamanan dan efektivitasnya sebagai produk kosmetik anti-aging. Protein hidrolisat mikroalga Nannochloropsis sp. (PHMN) diperoleh dari proses hidrolisis menggunakan enzim alkalase. PHMN dievaluasi perolehan rendemen, derajat hidrolisis, kandungan proksimat, asam amino serta aktivitas anti-elastasenya. PHMN diformulasikan menjadi sediaan emulgel, kemudian dievaluasi sifat fisikokimia dan stabilitasnya. Uji keamanan produk kosmetik PHMN dilakukan dan efektivitas produk kosmetik PHMN sebagai anti-aging dievaluasi dengan mengukur serat kolagen, elastisitas, dan kelembaban kulit relawan. Protein hidrolisat yang diperoleh memiliki nilai rendemen sebesar 25,77%±3,16% (b/b), derajat hidrolisis sebesar 36,73%, dan mengandung asam amino yang didominasi oleh asam glutamat, asam aspartat, dan leusin. Nilai konsentrasi penghambatan setengah maksimal (IC50) PHMN sebagai anti-elastase yaitu 244,43 mg/mL. Produk kosmetik PHMN menunjukkan stabilitas yang baik yaitu homogen dan kadar yang stabil setelah 24 minggu. Penggunaan produk kosmetik PHMN tidak menyebabkan iritasi dan meningkatkan serat kolagen, elastisitas, dan kelembaban kulit setelah 28 hari. Dari penelitian ini disimpulkan bahwa diperoleh protein hidrolisat dari mikroalga Nannochloropsis sp. serta produk kosmetik PHMN memiliki karakteristik yang baik, aman, dan efektif sebagai anti-aging

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Microalgae Nannochloropsis sp. contain various biomass composition including protein. Protein hydrolysis generate peptide and amino acids so that protein bioactivity improves. The purpose of study was to obtain protein hydrolysate from Nannochloropsis sp. microalgae, also assess its safety and efficacy as anti-aging cosmetic product. Nannochloropsis sp. protein hydrolysate (NPH) was obtained from microalgae through enzymatic hydrolysis using alcalase enzyme and characterized for yield, degree of hydrolysis (DH), proximate content, amino acids composition, and anti-elastase activity. NPH was formulated as emulgel, then evaluated for physical characteristics and stability. NPH cosmetic product was evaluated for safety and efficacy as anti-aging by measuring collagen fibers, elasticity, and moisture in volunteers. NPH was obtained with yield of 25.77±3.16% (w/w), DH value of 36.73%, and amino acids dominated by glutamic acid, aspartic acid, and leucin. Half-maximum inhibitory concentration (IC50) value as anti-elastase was 244.43 µg/mL. NPH cosmetic product showed good stability which homogenous and had stable protein content after 24 weeks storage. NPH cosmetic product usage did not cause skin irritation and increased collagen fiber, elasticity and moisture after 28 days. In conclusion, protein hydrolysate was obtained from Nannochloropsis sp. microalgae and NPH cosmetic product had good characteristic, safe, and effective as anti-aging."

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